Millions of eyes worldwide fixated on Pont Neuf Bridge in Paris as culture guru and music legend Pharrell Williams debuted his fashion collection as creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear on June 20. The bright colors, unique materials, meticulous attention to detail and charismatic flair for “LVovers” marked a new era for the brand.

Williams revolutionized streetwear as one of the most prolific pop culture icons across two decades. Streetwear would not be where it is today without his shoe brand Ice Cream, association with Bape and work with Billionaire Boys Club.

Still, many were skeptical of Williams succeeding legendary Louis Vuitton designer Virgil Abloh after his unexpected passing, especially because Williams lacks formal training in fashion design. But Williams brought a breath of fresh air with his “LVovers” collection inspired by the slogan of his home state, “Virginia is for lovers.”

The collection showcased squares on squares on squares. Louis Vuitton’s iconic “Damier” checkered pattern, commonly seen on classic two-tone brown LV bags, was central to most looks. To modernize the pattern, the collection featured a digitized camouflage; this “damoflauge” appeared on various pieces at the beginning of the runway showcase. 

The Damier pattern was a collection staple on two-piece ensembles, coats, bags and accessories in purple, yellow and red colors. Williams’ personality shined through as the collection revitalized classic LV fixtures with color, class and swag. However, the continual use of the square pattern was lackluster and repetitive, making the collection feel like one giant multi-colored chessboard.

To further revitalize LV classics, Williams made a concerted effort to evolve the brand’s most iconic products. With colorful Damier patterns across many accessories, one of the bags’ most surprising modifications was a soft, plush leather instead of the familiar stiff variety. Nestled in the models’ arms, the velvety bags morphed into new shapes and oozed luxury. The collection also displayed backpacks, baby bag keychains, cross-body bags and trunks with the same damier and damoflauge flourishes. 

The experimentation with materials did not stop at bags; Williams also took leather to new heights. Connecting back to Williams’ streetwear roots, the repertoire featured leather rugby shirts and full alligator skin jackets. One of the night’s best looks was a gray tracksuit lined with pearls and matching sunglasses attached to a crown of pearls. The contrast between the luxurious gems and the casual tracksuit was a refreshing juxtaposition. Guiding LV’s traditional designs in an elegant streetwear direction creates a more genuine and accessible opulence that consumers will love.

Louis Vuitton’s Menswear 2024 Spring/Summer show proudly displayed vibrant Damier patterns, luxurious materials and detailed accessories. While some choices felt repetitive, the detail-oriented collection marks a step in the right direction as Pharrell Williams seeks to position Louis Vuitton as a frontrunner in pop culture and fashion.

4 squares out of 5